Tuxedo Glossary

FABRIC TERMS

HERRINGBONE: Classic zigzag effect resembling the backbone of a herring.

IRIDESCENT: Contrasting warp and filling yarns giving a two-color effect.

JACQUARD: An intricate, variegated, self-pattern weave with clear finish.

PAISLEY: A fabric woven or printed with colorful curved (amoeba-like) abstract figures.

TARTAN: A plaid textile design of stripes of varying width and color against a solid ground, patterned to designate a clan.

TWILL: A textile weave in which filling yarns pass over one and under two or more warp yarns producing a diagonal rib.

WORSTED A smooth, compact yarn form long wool fibers, used for smooth, firm, compact fabrics.

TAILORING TERMS

BESOM: (be'-zum) Narrow welted edging on coat body above pocket lip.

CUTAWAY: (aka morning coat) Classic daytime formal attire that used to be worn only for events prior to noon. Now acceptable up until mid-afternoon, but never for evenings.The front of the coat "cuts away from the button down. Worn with a dove grey or black vest, striped or pin-dot ascot, wing collar shirt, and either striped or nailhead pants. Black formal shoes or dress calfskin shoes are a must.

DROP: The number of inches smaller the trouser waist of a suit is than the coat. A size 40 regular suit, for example, usually has a 6 inch trouser drop... a 34 inch waist.

GORGE: The seam on a coat where collar meets lapel.

HACKING POCKET: A slanted flap pocket on a coat. Rarely found in formal wear.

LOW RISE: The difference between inseam and outseam of trousers. Several inches shorter than normal rise depending on the designer. Favored by the young and slim.

NORMAL RISE: The difference between the inseam and outseam of trousers. (Normal rise for size 32 regular, for example, is 10 7/8" (10 1/8" for 32 short and 11 1/8" for 32 long. Rise increases 1/8" for each increase in waist size.)

NOTCHED (NOTCH) LAPEL: Type of lapel on which the top line slants down in line with the collar seam.

PEAKED (PEAK) LAPEL: Type of lapel on which the top line slants up from the horizontal.

UNDERBASTING: The temporary sewing together of two pieces of fabric to assure perfect pattern matches. Threads are removed at final pressing.

UNDERPRESSING: Pressing on the reverse side of the fabric to mold it so it will retain its shape.

VENT: Slit at center or sides on the bottom of the back of a jacket or coat.

VEST - CONTINENTAL: (aka waistcoat) Backless ("one size fits all") vest includes adjustable strapping at the back of the neck for length and across the lower back to adjust the waist.

VEST - FULL BACK: (aka waistcoat) Similar to a continental vest but with a full satin back like on a traditional three-piece suit and adjustable strap across the lower back to cinch-in any excess fabric.

WELT: A raised double edge, strip, insert, or seam for ornament or reinforcement.

ACCESSORIES

ASCOT: A cravat (tied scarves) with wide square ends; secured with an ornamental pin.

BOUTONNIERE: (boo'-t?-nîr') A flower or small bunch of flowers worn in a button hole.

BOW TIE: Standard formal attire (black is the preferred choice). Wide array of fabrics, colors and patterns. Also available pre-tied with a neck band to wear on a wing-collar or dress-collar shirt.

BRACES: Suspenders. Button-on or clip-on.

CANE: A straight black cane with white tips on both ends. Traditionally carried when wearing "white tie and tails". Usually accompanied by white gloves and a top hat.

CUFF LINKS: Traditional formal attire. Coordinated with shirt studs worn on the front placket of the shirt in lieu of buttons.

CUMMERBUND: (kum'-er-bund') A broad sash, pleated lengthwise and worn as an article of formal dress, as with a dinner jacket. Worn so the open side of the pleats are up (as if to hold opera tickets).

FEDORA: (fí-dôr'-uh) A soft felt hat with a fairly low crown creased lengthwise and a brim that can be turned up or down.

FOUR-IN-HAND: The simplest of neckwear knots to tie. A four-in-hand is a small knot for wear with a narrow-spread collar.

HANDKERCHIEF/POCKET SQUARE: A silk or satin fabric square folded in a variety of manners and placed in the outer breast pocket of a tuxedo. Does not have to match the vest but should complement the colors in the tie and or vest.

PUMP: Type of low-cut, slip-on shoe for formal evening wear. Does not have laces or straps.

SHAWL COLLAR: An unnotched lapel with no gorge.

WINDSOR: The largest of the three neckwear knot styles. Worn with wide spread collar shirts. (Half-windsor is worn with medium spread collar).